A Lamp Holder Sometimes he uses small bowls that haven't sold for this part of the project. When satisfied with the shape Donal drilled a hole for the stem and a smaller through-hole for the light cable. He cut a series of beads from top to bottom of the base with a spindle gouge, a very skilful technique. A beading tool could be used but doesn't give as good a finish as a spindle gouge as it is scraping the cut. The stem blank, again Beech, was mounted between centres and trued before a story-stick was used to mark critical dimensions. Donal advised that it is worth marking the positions of beads and coves while setting the blank out so that we don't, inadvertently, cut in the wrong place. He also pointed out that the lines on the story-stick had a triangular file cut at each dimension to help better seat the pencil accurately. Using a spindle gouge, skew, and parting tool Donal quickly formed the stem, once again defining junctions between features with little flat lines. The advantage of doing this work between steb centres is that the stem could be removed to check tenon size in the mortice in the base. Once the stem was complete Donal drilled it, between centres, using a long hole boring kit. Which looked very much like this one https://www.yandles.co.uk/woodturning-long-hole-boring-kit-deluxe-system-516/p27355 When the stem was drilled he mounted in it the base but didn't install the electrics. Just on electrics... be very careful to use sound, approved, gear and kits especially if selling lamps.

Introduction Ulster Woodturners had the pleasure of watching Donal Ryan present their November demonstration on Saturday 19th November, postponed from the previous weekend. Donal gave three demos, a cake stand, a lamp, and a candlestick using Spalted Beech for the cake stand and lamp. The processes he used were very straightforward which allowed members to concentrate on his beautiful technique and see how a full-time turner plans and executes cuts to maximise efficiency. We'll look at each demonstration and highlight significant points.

A Cake Stand Donal mounted a Beech blank and trued the circumference, cutting in both directions to try to minimise tear-out before truing the face of the blank. After drilling a 35mm hole for the stem of the stand he marked the maximum diameter of the bottom of the stem and cut an ogee curve towards the bottom of the base stopping about 10mm from the bottom. With the base complete a Beech spindle blank was mounted between centres and trued. Then, using a story-stick, Donal marked the significant dimensions before turning a 35mm tenon on each end to go into the base and the top. That done, he then shaped the spindle according to the marked dimensions continually checking thicknesses with calipers. He defined the junction between beads and coves with little flat profiles cut either with a skew or parting tool. A third large Beech blank was mounted on a faceplate to become the top bowl. Donal trued the outside and cut the profile of the bowl with accent lines cut with a skew before drilling a 35mm hole for the stem. He was able to check the stem for fit and remount it between centres to remove any excess wood. The blank was turned and the shallow bowl hollowed after which the cake stand could be assembled.

An Ornamental Candle A square Beech blank was mounted on a faceplate with care being taken to ensure it is absolutely centred or the offset will show in the corners after the shaping is done. Before starting to shape the blank Donal marked the tool rest to indicate the danger zone that fingers should never wander into. He used a bowl gouge to cut the profile right out to the corners being careful not to over cut and spoil the curve ot thickness of the 'legs'. He then cut a 55mm mortice in the base and flattened it with a skew before cutting a couple of decorative lines. It is usually attractive to see evidence of work done on what might be considered mundane, utilitarian, surfaces. Sanding should be done carefully with a hand-held sander in order to preserve fingers whilst trying to avoid tilting the sander over the edges so that they aren't rounded over and stay crisp. When the sanding was complete the blank was turned around and held with a chuck before drilling a 22mm hole for the stem. To hollow the bowl Donal worked from the outside in going down the wall in order to try to maintain wall thickness. Bear in mind that we cannot go back to a thin wall, especially a corner feature, as the wood will vibrate too much to get a true cut. A carbide scraper can be useful to refine the inside of the curve as it allows very small amounts of wood to be removed. When cutting is complete be very careful sanding the inside with those corners flying around. The spindle of the candlestick was made using an Elm blank held in a chuck and secured with the tailstock. It was roughed to true and, once again, a story-stick was used to set out dimensions. Donal emphasised the value of story-sticks in production turning and, especially in making matching pairs of items. He also advised keeping a completed item beside the lathe to check measurements because, if you are off in the first one, you need to be off the same amount in the next one(s). When the profile of the stem was complete Donal drilled a 13mm hole for the candle or imitation wooden candle he was about to make. On safety again, use metal candle holder cups for any candlesticks you might make. Even tealights require a metal or glass base to sit in. The candle was made using a blank of Whitethorn/Hawthorn. The blank needs to be drilled before shaping to take the 'flame' at the top. This can be done with pin jaws to drive the blank or a Forstner bit in the tailstock and a spur drive at the headstock... not as accurate but effective. With the blank mounted between centres again the taper was cut, taking care to taper to the top where the hole is. A tenon was cut to fit in the stem. Donal used a roughing gouge to shape the candle but refined the finish with a skew, supporting the blank with his hand do stop vibration. To sand the candle Donal used a piece of cork to support the sandpaper but a piece of wood would do the same job. Some people use a piece of butyl rubber to do the same thing. The candle was cut from a piece of Yew held in a chuck. The blank was rounded to near dimension and shaped into a flame, cutting a tenon using a 13mm spanner as a sizing guide.